Design e moda, por quem?: um registro das mulheres dos ofícios da costura na cidade de Bauru, São Paulo
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Data
2023-05-12
Autores
Azambuja, Manuela de
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Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
Os conceitos de política e ativismo no design refletem a respeito dos impactos da área nos produtos, nos ambientes e nas pessoas. Sobretudo, englobam a responsabilidade social dos designers e as articulações possíveis para combater problemas como desigualdades, injustiças sociais e insustentabilidade. A partir desta premissa, a pesquisa explora as relações entre design e gênero na área da moda, subárea do design, por meio do estudo do reconhecimento do trabalho das mulheres nos ofícios da costura, como a alfaiataria e a alta costura. Durante sua trajetória histórica até a atualidade, a moda forneceu subsídios para validar o sistema binário sexo-gênero presente nas estruturas culturais das sociedades ocidentais, sustentando as desigualdades de gênero nas profissões que abrangem esses ofícios. Como consequência, a alfaiataria foi atrelada aos homens; a alta costura, às mulheres. Contudo, diversas contribuições reconhecidas no campo são vinculadas a nomes masculinos, pois a vasta participação feminina nesses setores foi constantemente desconsiderada ou associada aos hábitos de costura nos ambientes domésticos, espaços ocupados e comandados – majoritariamente – por mulheres ao longo do tempo. Este contexto alimentou a subvalorização daquelas que trabalham nas áreas relacionadas à moda e à costura. Logo, a pesquisa objetiva contribuir para o entendimento de como as mulheres atuam nos ofícios da costura na contemporaneidade, a fim de evidenciar a importância do trabalho das mulheres como um passo essencial para que elas tenham o merecido reconhecimento de suas contribuições no setor. Com base na abordagem qualitativa e métodos dedutivo e indutivo, a metodologia dividiu-se em duas etapas: 1) pesquisa bibliográfica exploratória, para o estudo de conceitos e teorias relacionados ao objeto de pesquisa tais como design e ativismo, feminismo, gênero e história da moda; 2) pesquisa documental descritiva, em que se realizou um estudo de campo para análise do trabalho de profissionais que atuam na contemporaneidade. Para tanto, conduziram-se entrevistas semiestruturadas com oito profissionais para entender a forma como praticam os ofícios da costura segundo suas particularidades. Como resultado, observou-se que conhecer essas mulheres e a forma como atuam profissionalmente é um passo significativo para retratar e compreender quem são as outras pessoas e processos envolvidos na cadeia produtiva do vestuário.
The concepts of politics and activism in design are often used to analyze the influence of design on products, environments and people as they encompass designers’ social responsibilities to confront problems such as inequalities, social injustices and low sustainability (or lack thereof). On the basis of this premise, this research investigates the connections between design and gender in fashion, a sub-area of design, through a study of female sewing craft’s work recognition. For a long time, fashion has provided subsidies to validate the sex-gender binarity system present in the cultural structures of western societies, sustaining gender inequalities in the professions related to these crafts. As a consequence, tailoring is overwhelmingly related to men and high fashion to women. However, many contributions to the field of fashion are attributed to man, while female ones have been systematically disregarded or associated with purely domestic sewing practices, that is, the spaces occupied and commanded by women throughout time. This context provided foundations for an overall underappreciation of female’s work in fashion and sewing industry. Therefore, this research aimed to investigate women’s participation in contemporary sewing crafts to evaluate how important it is to recognize their labor in order to give them their fair share of appreciation in the field. Using a qualitative approach featuring deductive and inductive methods, the proposed study addressed this goal in two steps: 1) exploratory bibliographic research focusing on the concepts related to the main object of this study such as design activism, feminism, gender and fashion history, and 2) descriptive documental research based on a field study seeking to analyze contemporary female work. For that, semi-structured interviews with eight professionals were conducted to understand how they perform these sewing crafts according to their particularities. As a result, it was observed that knowing these women and the way they act professionally is a significant step to portray and understand the people and the processes involved in the clothing production chain.
The concepts of politics and activism in design are often used to analyze the influence of design on products, environments and people as they encompass designers’ social responsibilities to confront problems such as inequalities, social injustices and low sustainability (or lack thereof). On the basis of this premise, this research investigates the connections between design and gender in fashion, a sub-area of design, through a study of female sewing craft’s work recognition. For a long time, fashion has provided subsidies to validate the sex-gender binarity system present in the cultural structures of western societies, sustaining gender inequalities in the professions related to these crafts. As a consequence, tailoring is overwhelmingly related to men and high fashion to women. However, many contributions to the field of fashion are attributed to man, while female ones have been systematically disregarded or associated with purely domestic sewing practices, that is, the spaces occupied and commanded by women throughout time. This context provided foundations for an overall underappreciation of female’s work in fashion and sewing industry. Therefore, this research aimed to investigate women’s participation in contemporary sewing crafts to evaluate how important it is to recognize their labor in order to give them their fair share of appreciation in the field. Using a qualitative approach featuring deductive and inductive methods, the proposed study addressed this goal in two steps: 1) exploratory bibliographic research focusing on the concepts related to the main object of this study such as design activism, feminism, gender and fashion history, and 2) descriptive documental research based on a field study seeking to analyze contemporary female work. For that, semi-structured interviews with eight professionals were conducted to understand how they perform these sewing crafts according to their particularities. As a result, it was observed that knowing these women and the way they act professionally is a significant step to portray and understand the people and the processes involved in the clothing production chain.
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Palavras-chave
Design e ativismo, Moda e gênero, Alfaiataria, Alta costura, Mulheres, Costureiras, Design activism, Fashion and gender, Tailoring, High fashion, Women, Seamstresses