Os estilistas e a produção de moda
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Data
2007-08-30
Autores
Alário, Mônica Agda de Souza [UNESP]
Título da Revista
ISSN da Revista
Título de Volume
Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
O objetivo deste trabalho é o estudo da formação e atuação dos produtores de Moda no Brasil, que se profissionalizam a partir dos anos noventa, quando foram criadas as primeiras instituições superiores de ensino especializado, contribuindo para a consolidação, na primeira década do século XXI, do campo da moda brasileiro, bem articulado ao mercado internacional. Para tanto, investigamos a formação do campo da Moda nacional, desde a importação das tendências e modas francesas que caracterizaram o vestir nacional desde o século XIX até o final dos anos cinqüenta. Nos anos sessenta, despontaram os primeiros criadores de moda nacionais que, apesar da visibilidade que tiveram, eram talentos isolados e autodidatas. Entre os anos setenta e noventa, vimos surgir, no cenário brasileiro, transformações em setores sócio-econômico-culturais distintos, porém convergentes, que acompanharam o desenvolvimento da sociedade brasileira e que foram fundamentais para o desenvolvimento da indústria da Moda nacional. Destes, destacamos principalmente as indústrias editorial, fonográfica e a abrangência da TV. Nos anos noventa, novas mudanças sociais, culturais e econômicas, provocadas por uma rearticulação do capitalismo tardio, no plano global, trouxeram, para a indústria da Moda nacional, a figura do estilista graduado. Nossa hipótese de trabalho partiu da observação, segundo a qual os estilistas brasileiros graduados são profissionais cuja formação e trabalho são organizados sob a égide do poderio econômico que caracteriza a indústria da Moda. Para este estudo, foram realizadas pesquisas bibliográficas, entrevistas com graduandos e graduados em Moda, além de contatos com agentes do setor, a fim de contribuirmos para a compreensão da relação entre os estilistas graduados e a indústria da Moda brasileira na era global.
The objective of this work is the study of the organization and performance of the Fashion Designers in Brazil, that have become professionalized since the early nineties, when the first specialized courses were created in universities, contributing to the consolidation, in the first decade of the XXI century, of the Fashion field in Brazil, well connected to the international market. With this purpose, a research was made about the development of the national Fashion field, from the import of the French tendencies and fashions which characterized the national dressing since the XIX century, to the end of the fifties. In the sixties, the first national fashion designers appeared and, in spite of their foresight, they were isolated and autodidactic talents. In the years seventy and ninety, we witnessed in the Brazilian scenery, the appearance of different, however convergent partner-economical-cultural sections, that accompanied the development of the Brazilian society that were fundamental for the development of the industry of the national Fashion. From these, we detach the editorial and photographical industries, besides the inclusion of the TV industry. In the nineties, new social, cultural and economical changes provoked by a rearticulation of the late capitalism at a global level, that brought the graduate stylist's illustration to the industry of the national Fashion. Our work hypothesis departed from the observation that the graduate Brazilian stylists are professionals whose formation and work are organized under the shelter of the economical power that characterizes the industry of Fashion. For this study, bibliographical researches were accomplished, interviews with under graduate and graduate students of Fashion, besides contacts with agents of the section, in order for us to be able to contribute to the understanding of the relationship between the graduate stylists and the industry of the Brazilian Fashion in the global era.
The objective of this work is the study of the organization and performance of the Fashion Designers in Brazil, that have become professionalized since the early nineties, when the first specialized courses were created in universities, contributing to the consolidation, in the first decade of the XXI century, of the Fashion field in Brazil, well connected to the international market. With this purpose, a research was made about the development of the national Fashion field, from the import of the French tendencies and fashions which characterized the national dressing since the XIX century, to the end of the fifties. In the sixties, the first national fashion designers appeared and, in spite of their foresight, they were isolated and autodidactic talents. In the years seventy and ninety, we witnessed in the Brazilian scenery, the appearance of different, however convergent partner-economical-cultural sections, that accompanied the development of the Brazilian society that were fundamental for the development of the industry of the national Fashion. From these, we detach the editorial and photographical industries, besides the inclusion of the TV industry. In the nineties, new social, cultural and economical changes provoked by a rearticulation of the late capitalism at a global level, that brought the graduate stylist's illustration to the industry of the national Fashion. Our work hypothesis departed from the observation that the graduate Brazilian stylists are professionals whose formation and work are organized under the shelter of the economical power that characterizes the industry of Fashion. For this study, bibliographical researches were accomplished, interviews with under graduate and graduate students of Fashion, besides contacts with agents of the section, in order for us to be able to contribute to the understanding of the relationship between the graduate stylists and the industry of the Brazilian Fashion in the global era.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Moda - Estilo, Estilistas (Moda), Estilistas - Formação
Como citar
ALÁRIO, Mônica Agda de Souza. Os estilistas e a produção de moda. 2007. 200 f. Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual Paulista, Faculdade de Ciências e Letras de Araraquara, 2007.