Joia contemporânea: relações entre o adorno e o corpo
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Data
2016-02-26
Autores
Mercaldi, Marlon Aparecido [UNESP]
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Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
A proposta desta pesquisa é o estudo da joia contemporânea a partir do recorte estabelecido entre a primeira exposição de joias contemporâneas, em 1961, em Londres, os fatos e eventos importantes até os anos de 2010 que constroem o conceito e a abrangência da joalheria contemporânea. Essa investigação foi constituída por meio de estudos que observaram a joalheria no âmbito internacional, principalmente por meio dos ¬desdobramentos que tiveram curso na Europa e que influenciaram, de certa maneira, sua disseminação e estruturação como um campo consolidado, tanto de pesquisa como de práticas projetuais. Nesse sentido buscamos conceituar e definir a nomenclatura joia contemporânea, mesmo diante de contradições encontradas, porém vimos que ela se configura como uma prática abrangente e que estabelece diálogos e relações com campos como arte, artesanato, design e moda. A abrangência e a pluralidade no enfoque da joalheria contemporânea nos levaram à sua contextualização histórica e às questões do adorno e a relação destes com o corpo no contemporâneo. Por meio dessa delimitação, somada às funções do objeto a partir da teoria do design e da análise do objeto estudadas na cultura material, estabelecemos abordagens de análise de joias estrangeiras e nacionais, explicitando as inter-relações existentes entre elas, bem como os conceitos, critérios e características que apontam a joia contemporânea como elemento construtor de linguagem, passível de ser identificado e analisado.
The intention of this research is the study of contemporary jewelry from it’s first exhibition in 1961 in London, key facts and events to the years 2010 that contributed to build the concept and scope of contemporary jewelry. This research was stated by studies that observed the jewelry at an international level, mainly through the developments that took place in Europe and that influenced in some way, its dissemination and structuring as much as a consolidated research field as a projective practices. In this sense we seek to conceptualize and define the contemporary jewelry nomenclature, even having encountered contradictions, but we saw that it is configured as a comprehensive practice that establish dialogues and relations with fields such as art, craft, design and fashion. The scope and plurality in the contemporary jewelry approach led us to their historical context and the adornment issues and their relationship with the body in the contemporary time. Through this delimitation added to the object functions from the theory of design and object analysis studied in material culture, we established foreign and national jewelry analysis approaches, explaining the interrelationships between them, as well as the concepts, criteria and characteristics that point at contemporary jewelry as construct language element, which can be identified and analyzed.
The intention of this research is the study of contemporary jewelry from it’s first exhibition in 1961 in London, key facts and events to the years 2010 that contributed to build the concept and scope of contemporary jewelry. This research was stated by studies that observed the jewelry at an international level, mainly through the developments that took place in Europe and that influenced in some way, its dissemination and structuring as much as a consolidated research field as a projective practices. In this sense we seek to conceptualize and define the contemporary jewelry nomenclature, even having encountered contradictions, but we saw that it is configured as a comprehensive practice that establish dialogues and relations with fields such as art, craft, design and fashion. The scope and plurality in the contemporary jewelry approach led us to their historical context and the adornment issues and their relationship with the body in the contemporary time. Through this delimitation added to the object functions from the theory of design and object analysis studied in material culture, we established foreign and national jewelry analysis approaches, explaining the interrelationships between them, as well as the concepts, criteria and characteristics that point at contemporary jewelry as construct language element, which can be identified and analyzed.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Design, Joia contemporânea, Adorno, Corpo, Design, Contemporary jewelery, Adornment