Boas costuras, belas figuras: uma história do despertar da moda no Oitocentos carioca
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Data
2018-09-11
Autores
Cintra, Mariana de Paula
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Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
As descrições e prescrições dos diversos aspectos do cotidiano da boa gente foram recorrentes nos escritos sobre o Rio de Janeiro oitocentista. Nos primeiros periódicos voltados ao público feminino, criados a partir de 1827, nos jornais publicados desde 1808 e nos enredos dos primeiros romances cariocas, as festividades religiosas e mundanas – bailes e saraus –, as apresentações teatrais, as colunas sobre moda, os anúncios de comerciantes dedicados a vender suas mercadorias importadas, as menções ao bom trato das vestimentas, o valor da moda e da beleza e a importância do bem vestir foram tópicos presentes. Partindo deste variado corpus documental, que contempla desde o limiar do Oitocentos, quando os profissionais europeus começaram a se estabelecer nas ruas centrais do Rio de Janeiro, até meados de 1850, quando os discursos sobre a moda e os aspectos da civilização já se encontravam enraizados na sociedade carioca, a presente dissertação busca apresentar e interrogar como os cuidados com a aparência e a moda ganharam centralidade na vida das mulheres oitocentistas. O propósito fundamental, em outros termos, é dar-se a conhecer o cenário de uma capital brasileira que se abria para os discursos de civilidade e europeização dos espaços sociais e dos hábitos cotidianos por meio dos padrões vestimentários recomendados. A partir do que acreditamos ser o despertar da moda na sociedade fluminense, procuramos trazer à luz as particularidades e recorrências desses discursos e como eles ajudaram a compor um tipo de mulher ideal oitocentista.
The descriptions and prescriptions of the various aspects of the daily life of the good people were recurrent in the writings on Rio de Janeiro during the nineteenth century. In the first periodicals aimed at the female audience, created in 1827, in the newspapers published since 1808 and in the entanglements of the first Carioca novels, religious and worldly festivities - dances and serenades -, theatrical presentations, fashion columns, merchants dedicated to selling their imported goods, mentions to the good treatment of clothing, the value of fashion and beauty, and the importance of well-being were present topics. Starting from this varied documentary corpus that contemplates from the threshold of the Eighth, when the European professionals began to settle in the central streets of Rio de Janeiro, until the middle of 1850, when the discourses on the fashion and the aspects of the civilization already were rooted in the society of Rio de Janeiro, the present dissertation seeks to present and question how care with appearance and fashion have gained centrality in the life of eighteenth-century women. The fundamental purpose, in other words, is to make known the scenario of a Brazilian capital that was open to the discourses of civility and Europeanization of social spaces and daily habits through standardized dress patterns. From what we believe to be the awakening of fashion in the society of Rio de Janeiro, we try to bring to light the particularities and recurrences of these discourses and how they helped to compose a type of ideal woman from the nineteenth century.
The descriptions and prescriptions of the various aspects of the daily life of the good people were recurrent in the writings on Rio de Janeiro during the nineteenth century. In the first periodicals aimed at the female audience, created in 1827, in the newspapers published since 1808 and in the entanglements of the first Carioca novels, religious and worldly festivities - dances and serenades -, theatrical presentations, fashion columns, merchants dedicated to selling their imported goods, mentions to the good treatment of clothing, the value of fashion and beauty, and the importance of well-being were present topics. Starting from this varied documentary corpus that contemplates from the threshold of the Eighth, when the European professionals began to settle in the central streets of Rio de Janeiro, until the middle of 1850, when the discourses on the fashion and the aspects of the civilization already were rooted in the society of Rio de Janeiro, the present dissertation seeks to present and question how care with appearance and fashion have gained centrality in the life of eighteenth-century women. The fundamental purpose, in other words, is to make known the scenario of a Brazilian capital that was open to the discourses of civility and Europeanization of social spaces and daily habits through standardized dress patterns. From what we believe to be the awakening of fashion in the society of Rio de Janeiro, we try to bring to light the particularities and recurrences of these discourses and how they helped to compose a type of ideal woman from the nineteenth century.
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Palavras-chave
Rio de Janeiro, Oitocentos, Mulher, Moda, Beleza, Eight hundred, Woman, Fashion, Beauty