O discurso da moda sustentável: uma prática discursiva ativista?
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Data
2022-05-27
Autores
Oliveira, Gabriela Andrade de
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Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
O presente trabalho analisa o discurso da moda sustentável empregando, para tanto, o quadro teórico-metodológico da Análise do Discurso francesa, com ênfase na proposta de tratamento da discursividade desenvolvida por Maingueneau na obra Gênese dos discursos. Adotando essa perspectiva, consideramos o discurso da moda sustentável como um posicionamento no interior do campo discursivo da moda, o que significa assumir que é regido por um sistema de restrições semânticas que restringe simultaneamente todos os planos discursivos (teses, léxico, ethos etc.). Essa proposta surgiu a partir da constatação de que há, no campo da moda, já há algum tempo, um esforço cada vez mais evidente para tentar conciliar dois temas frequentemente tomados como paradoxais – moda e sustentabilidade –, o que leva ao surgimento de movimentos ativistas, institutos e veículos de comunicação dedicados a informar e atuar em prol de uma moda sustentável. Nossa análise se concentra no discurso produzido no âmbito desses movimentos e se detém a três objetivos principais: i) analisar e descrever o funcionamento do discurso da moda sustentável nos termos de uma semântica global; ii) analisar o ethos desse discurso, com o intuito de caracterizar-lhe o enunciador e, ao mesmo tempo, de avaliar a pertinência dos semas encontrados na identificação da semântica global desse discurso; iii) analisar alguns aspectos da face social desse discurso, considerando-o nos termos de uma prática discursiva. Quanto ao primeiro objetivo, nossa investigação revela que o discurso da moda sustentável, por sua inerente paradoxalidade, esbarra em limites relativos ao próprio campo em que emerge e, assim, é levado a promover diversas concessões que se dão, principalmente, por meio de duas operações semânticas principais, a saber: integração e moderação. Dessa forma, verificamos que, embora seja um discurso que se quer revolucionário, “integrando” sustentabilidade, entre outros valores, à moda, ele propõe que isso se efetive de forma moderada. Essas características também se estendem para o ethos do discurso, que apresenta um fiador que se projeta como um ativista digital, destemido e revolucionário, ao mesmo tempo que é doce, otimista, ético e bondoso. Por fim, a análise de alguns aspectos das práticas sociais que o discurso promove evidencia que, embora o discurso da moda sustentável adote práticas típicas do campo da moda, tais como a promoção de desfiles e de eventos, ele as subverte conforme as restrições da semântica global que o define, corroborando a tese, formulada por Maingueneau, de que a semântica global rege não só os mais diversos aspectos da face mais verbal do discurso, como também os de sua face mais social.
This thesis analyzes the discourse of sustainable fashion using, for this purpose, the framework of French Discourse Analysis, with emphasis on the discursive treatment purposes by Maingueneau in his book Genesis of Discourses. Adopting this perspective, we consider that the sustainable fashion discourse is a positioning within discursive field of fashion, and that is regulated by a system of semantic restrictions that simultaneously restricts all discursive planes (theses, lexicon, ethos, and others). This proposal emerged from the observation that, in the field of fashion, there has been an increasingly evident effort to try to reconcile two themes often taken as paradoxical - fashion and sustainability -, leading to the emergence of activist movements, institutes and communication vehicles dedicated to informing and acting in favor of sustainable fashion. Our analysis focuses on the discourse produced within these movements and proposes three main objectives: i) to analyze and describe the functioning of the sustainable fashion discourse in terms of a global semantics; ii) to analyze the ethos of this discourse, in order to characterize the enunciator and, at the same time, to assess the relevance of the semas found in the identification of the global semantics of this discourse; iii) to analyze some aspects of the social face of this discourse, considering it in terms of a discursive practice. Our investigation reveals that the discourse of sustainable fashion, due to its inherent paradox, runs up against limits related to the field in which it emerges and, thus, is led to promote several concessions that occur, mainly, through two main semantic operations, namely: integration and moderation. In this way, we find that, although it is a discourse that wants to be revolutionary, “integrating” sustainability, among other values, into fashion, proposes that this be carried out moderately. These characteristics also extend to the ethos of the speech, which features a guarantor who projects himself as a digital activist, fearless and revolutionary, while being sweet, optimistic, ethical, and kind. Finally, the analysis of some aspects of the social practices that the discourse promotes shows that, although the sustainable fashion discourse adopts typical practices in the fashion field, such as the promotion of fashion shows and events, it subverts them according to the restrictions of semantics. That defines it, corroborating the thesis, formulated by Maingueneau, that global semantics rules not only the most diverse aspects of the most verbal face of discourse but also those of its more social face.
This thesis analyzes the discourse of sustainable fashion using, for this purpose, the framework of French Discourse Analysis, with emphasis on the discursive treatment purposes by Maingueneau in his book Genesis of Discourses. Adopting this perspective, we consider that the sustainable fashion discourse is a positioning within discursive field of fashion, and that is regulated by a system of semantic restrictions that simultaneously restricts all discursive planes (theses, lexicon, ethos, and others). This proposal emerged from the observation that, in the field of fashion, there has been an increasingly evident effort to try to reconcile two themes often taken as paradoxical - fashion and sustainability -, leading to the emergence of activist movements, institutes and communication vehicles dedicated to informing and acting in favor of sustainable fashion. Our analysis focuses on the discourse produced within these movements and proposes three main objectives: i) to analyze and describe the functioning of the sustainable fashion discourse in terms of a global semantics; ii) to analyze the ethos of this discourse, in order to characterize the enunciator and, at the same time, to assess the relevance of the semas found in the identification of the global semantics of this discourse; iii) to analyze some aspects of the social face of this discourse, considering it in terms of a discursive practice. Our investigation reveals that the discourse of sustainable fashion, due to its inherent paradox, runs up against limits related to the field in which it emerges and, thus, is led to promote several concessions that occur, mainly, through two main semantic operations, namely: integration and moderation. In this way, we find that, although it is a discourse that wants to be revolutionary, “integrating” sustainability, among other values, into fashion, proposes that this be carried out moderately. These characteristics also extend to the ethos of the speech, which features a guarantor who projects himself as a digital activist, fearless and revolutionary, while being sweet, optimistic, ethical, and kind. Finally, the analysis of some aspects of the social practices that the discourse promotes shows that, although the sustainable fashion discourse adopts typical practices in the fashion field, such as the promotion of fashion shows and events, it subverts them according to the restrictions of semantics. That defines it, corroborating the thesis, formulated by Maingueneau, that global semantics rules not only the most diverse aspects of the most verbal face of discourse but also those of its more social face.
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Análise do discurso, Semântica global, Ethos, Prática discursiva, Moda, Sustentabilidade, Discourse analysis, Global semantics, Discoursive practice, Fashion, Sustainability