Segurança e eficácia em cosméticos
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Data
2022-12-08
Autores
Mendonça, Josiane Pereira
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Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
A indústria cosmética tem crescido no últimos anos, tendo o mercado global faturado em 2017 cerca de US $532,43 bilhões, e até 2023 deve chegar a US $805,6. A ascensão desse mercado exige que o desenvolvimento dos cosméticos ocorra de forma ordenada, e que a segurança dos produtos seja garantida a fim de estarem livres de contaminação microbiana e que não sejam prejudiciais à saúde do consumidor. A proteção e garantia de eficácia dos cosméticos é feita a partir de um sistema de preservação, onde substâncias denominadas conservantes são inseridas na formulação do produto, podendo ser de origem sintética ou natural. Entre os conservantes mais utilizados estão parabenos, isotiazolinonas, liberadores de formaldeído, ácidos orgânicos, álcoois, fenóis, aldeídos, triclosan entre outros. Para ser considerado um conservante algumas características são importantes para esse composto, como: ter amplo espectro de atividade, ser efetivo contra todos os fungos e bactérias; ter uma duração maior que o próprio produto cosmético; ser estável sob a condições de fabricação do produto acabado (pH, temperatura, etc.); não afetar as propriedades organolépticas como cor e odor; ter compatibilidade com os demais itens da formulação e não ser tóxico para que seja tolerável para os seres humanos. A incorporação dessas substâncias no produto permite a estabilidade deste, evitando que haja uma deterioração e decomposição causada pelo crescimento de micro-organismo, sendo os principais Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Burkholderia cepacia, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Candida albicans, Enterobacter gergoviae. O desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos deve estar de acordo com regulamentações e diretrizes que visam controlar a utilização de ingredientes, atestar a segurança e regular a possibilidade de reações adversas prejudiciais à saúde do ser humano. Os principais mercados de cosméticos são Estados Unidos, Japão e União Europeia, sendo portanto as regulamentações mais indicadas, porém China, Brasil e Canadá também possuem requisitos importantes. Além da utilização de agentes para a preservação do produto, a indústria cosmética emprega outras alternativas para garantir a eficiência e comercialização dos produtos, entre elas estão a atividade de água, pH, aplicação das boas práticas de fabricação, uso de embalagem apropriada, teste de desafio (Challenge Test). O potencial de expansão do mercado cosmético, levou esse setor a torna-se competitivo, por isso a indústria tem aumentado seu interesse em pesquisa científicas, e através do avanço da tecnologia faz com que a inovação esteja presente criando produtos mais sustentáveis, seguros e biodegradáveis.
The cosmetic industry has grown in recent years, with the global market recorded in 2017 around US$532.43 billion, and by 2023 it should reach US$805.6 billion. The rise of this market demands that the development of cosmetics takes place in an orderly manner, and that the safety of the products is guaranteed in order to be free of microbial contamination and that they are not harmful to the health of the consumer. The protection and guarantee of effectiveness of cosmetics is made from a preservation system, where substances called preservatives are inserted in the product formulation, which may be of synthetic or natural origin. Among the most used preservatives are parabens, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, organic acids, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, triclosan, among others. To be considered a preservative, some characteristics are important for this compound, such as: having a broad spectrum of activity, being effective against all fungi and bacteria; to last longer than the cosmetic product itself; be stable under the manufacturing conditions of the finished product (pH, temperature, etc.); not affect the organoleptic properties such as color and odor; have compatibility with the other items in the formulation and be nontoxic to be tolerable for humans. The incorporation of these substances into the product allows its stability, preventing deterioration and decomposition caused by the growth of microorganisms, the main ones being Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Burkholderia cepacia, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Candida albicans, Enterobacter gergoviae. The development of cosmetic products must comply with regulations and guidelines aimed at controlling the use of ingredients, attesting to their safety and regulating the possibility of adverse reactions harmful to human health. The main cosmetics markets are the United States, Japan and the European Union, and therefore the most appropriate regulations, but China, Brazil and Canada also have important requirements. In addition to the use of agents to preserve the product, the cosmetic industry uses other alternatives to guarantee the efficiency and commercialization of the products, among them are water activity, pH, application of good manufacturing practices, use of appropriate packaging, challenge (Challenge Test). The potential for expansion of the cosmetic market has led this sector to become competitive, which is why the industry has increased its interest in scientific research, and through the advancement of technology, innovation is present by creating more sustainable, safe and biodegradable products.
The cosmetic industry has grown in recent years, with the global market recorded in 2017 around US$532.43 billion, and by 2023 it should reach US$805.6 billion. The rise of this market demands that the development of cosmetics takes place in an orderly manner, and that the safety of the products is guaranteed in order to be free of microbial contamination and that they are not harmful to the health of the consumer. The protection and guarantee of effectiveness of cosmetics is made from a preservation system, where substances called preservatives are inserted in the product formulation, which may be of synthetic or natural origin. Among the most used preservatives are parabens, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, organic acids, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, triclosan, among others. To be considered a preservative, some characteristics are important for this compound, such as: having a broad spectrum of activity, being effective against all fungi and bacteria; to last longer than the cosmetic product itself; be stable under the manufacturing conditions of the finished product (pH, temperature, etc.); not affect the organoleptic properties such as color and odor; have compatibility with the other items in the formulation and be nontoxic to be tolerable for humans. The incorporation of these substances into the product allows its stability, preventing deterioration and decomposition caused by the growth of microorganisms, the main ones being Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Burkholderia cepacia, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Candida albicans, Enterobacter gergoviae. The development of cosmetic products must comply with regulations and guidelines aimed at controlling the use of ingredients, attesting to their safety and regulating the possibility of adverse reactions harmful to human health. The main cosmetics markets are the United States, Japan and the European Union, and therefore the most appropriate regulations, but China, Brazil and Canada also have important requirements. In addition to the use of agents to preserve the product, the cosmetic industry uses other alternatives to guarantee the efficiency and commercialization of the products, among them are water activity, pH, application of good manufacturing practices, use of appropriate packaging, challenge (Challenge Test). The potential for expansion of the cosmetic market has led this sector to become competitive, which is why the industry has increased its interest in scientific research, and through the advancement of technology, innovation is present by creating more sustainable, safe and biodegradable products.
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Palavras-chave
Conservantes, Contaminação microbiológica, Preservação