Comparative Assessments of New Hair-Straightening Cosmetic Formulations on Wavy Type 2 Hair

Abstract

Hair straighteners are among the most technically complex products to be safely and effectively developed, and this challenge has increased even more with the higher incidence of resistant hair among consumers. This underscores the importance of studying new active ingredients, combinations and carrier formulations to improve performance without compromising safety. In this research, we compared eight hair-straightening formulations with different active ingredients and/or concentrations to develop new, safer and more effective texture modifiers. Eight formulations were developed and compared with each other and to controls (virgin and bleached hair) regarding mechanical and thermal resistance, cuticle morphology, hair shine and fiber diameter. Results showed that all formulations were safe and effective at straightening hair. Specifically, 13.3% and 9.4% ammonium thioglycolate (G03 and G04) were more suitable for wavy and curly hair, 12.5% and 7.9% amino methyl propanol thioglycolate (G05 and G06) for finer or chemically processed hair, 5% and 4% sodium cysteamine (G07 and G08) for curly and tight curly hair to control volume, and 2% and 1% of a combination of ammonium thioglycolate with sodium thioglycolate (G09 and G10) for more resistant wavy and curly hair.