Estratégias de construção para estruturas têxteis vestíveis
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Data
2013-06-19
Autores
Souza, Patrícia Mello
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Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
Este estudo versa sobre o processo construtivo no âmbito do design de moda na busca de novas estratégias para o desenvolvimento de produtos. Aborda o conceito de construção de modo amplo relacionando moda e arquitetura como forma de identificar princípios estruturais similares e pensamentos construtivos análogos. Investiga a aplicação de diferentes recursos de construção a materiais têxteis distintos para avaliar a aplicabilidade do recurso como elemento estruturante, e o comportamento do material no que se refere a aspectos de caimento, mediante as inúmeras intervenções. Os dados são coletados por meio de levantamento e experimento, gerados em laboratório e em pesquisa de campo. Na fase de experimentação, técnicas de modelagem tridimensional viabilizam as construções que são estruturadas pelos recursos. Em laboratório, procede-se a análise objetiva para medição do caimento de um conjunto de amostras com os diferentes recursos aplicados, gerando coeficientes numéricos. As mesmas amostras são submetidas à avaliação subjetiva baseada na análise sensorial. Correlacionam-se os dados que comprovam que a aplicação de determinados recursos construtivos ao material têxtil, promove neste, transformações de ordem técnica e estética, que combinadas a estratégias de construção viabilizam novas estruturas que questionam parâmetros vigentes – estabelecidos pelo uso – nas relações entre materiais têxteis e suas aplicações.
The present study deals with the construction process within the scope of fashion design in search of new strategies for product development. It gives a wide approach to the concept of construction, establishing relations between fashion and architecture as a way to identify similar structural principles and analogue constructive notions. It investigates the application of different resources from construction to distinct textile materials, in order to evaluate the applicability of these resources as a structuring element, and the materials' behavior in what refers to aspects of fall and fit, through endless interventions. Data was collected through assessment and experimentation, generated in laboratory and field research. In the experimentation stage, three- dimensional patterning techniques made possible the constructions structured by the resources. In the laboratory, an objective analysis followed, to measure the fall and fit of a set of samples with the different applied resources, generating numerical coefficients. The same samples were submitted to a subjective evaluation based on sensory analysis. The data was correlated, proving that applying determined constructive resources to the textile material promotes, in the latter, transformations of technical and aesthetic order, which, when combined with construction strategies, make new structures possible, leading to a questioning of present parameters – established through use – in the relations between textiles and their applications.
The present study deals with the construction process within the scope of fashion design in search of new strategies for product development. It gives a wide approach to the concept of construction, establishing relations between fashion and architecture as a way to identify similar structural principles and analogue constructive notions. It investigates the application of different resources from construction to distinct textile materials, in order to evaluate the applicability of these resources as a structuring element, and the materials' behavior in what refers to aspects of fall and fit, through endless interventions. Data was collected through assessment and experimentation, generated in laboratory and field research. In the experimentation stage, three- dimensional patterning techniques made possible the constructions structured by the resources. In the laboratory, an objective analysis followed, to measure the fall and fit of a set of samples with the different applied resources, generating numerical coefficients. The same samples were submitted to a subjective evaluation based on sensory analysis. The data was correlated, proving that applying determined constructive resources to the textile material promotes, in the latter, transformations of technical and aesthetic order, which, when combined with construction strategies, make new structures possible, leading to a questioning of present parameters – established through use – in the relations between textiles and their applications.
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Palavras-chave
Design de moda, Recursos construtivos, Estruturas têxteis, Caimento, Modelagem, Fashion design, Construction resources, Textile structures, Fall and fit, Patterning