Extrato de pitaya (Hylocereus undatus): prospecção de novo ativo e sua aplicação em cosmético antioxidante e fotoprotetor
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Data
2019-07-04
Autores
Tambor, Jéssica
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Editor
Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
A tendência atual da indústria cosmética é o desenvolvimento de produtos antienvelhecimento (age-intelligence). Isso se deve ao aumento da expectativa de vida da população e à preocupação constante com uma aparência mais jovem. Ativos naturais provenientes de plantas são alternativas interessantes como substitutos dos ativos sintéticos, uma vez que são matrizes complexas e, muitos deles, apresentam significativa atividade antioxidante, o que confere ao produto, ao qual for incorporado, atividade antienvelhecimento. Os ativos de origem vegetal podem diminuir os custos de produção, o que é visto como vantagem do ponto de vista industrial. Neste contexto, o objetivo do presente estudo foi avaliar a atividade antioxidante e fotoprotetora de extratos da casca e do cladódio de Hylocereus undatus para incorporação em emulsão e obter um cosmético multifuncional. Foram realizados testes de atividade antioxidante, pelo método de inibição do radical DPPH●; de capacidade despigmentante, pelo método de inibição da tirosinase; além da avaliação da atividade fotoprotetora e de sinergismo do fator de proteção solar de filtros químicos e físicos. O extrato do cladódio se mostrou mais eficiente como ativo cosmético, portanto foi adicionado a uma emulsão facial antienvelhecimento multifuncional. Apesar de serem necessários estudos complementares para garantir a eficácia, o fitocosmético desenvolvido com o extrato de cladódio de H.undatus apresenta enorme potencial de aplicação, e pode ser considerado uma preparação cosmética multifuncional.
The current trend in the cosmetic industry is the development of antiaging products. This is due to the increased life expectancy of the population and the constant concern with a more youthful appearance. Natural actives from plants are interesting alternatives as substitutes for synthetic assets, since they are complex matrices and many of them have a significant antioxidant activity, which gives the product, to which it is incorporated, an anti-aging activity. Assets of plant origin can reduce production costs, which is seen as advantage from the industrial point of view. In this context, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant and photoprotective activity of the shell and cladode extracts of Hylocereus undatus, for incorporation in emulsion and to obtain a multifunctional cosmetic. Antioxidant activity tests were performed by the DPPH radical inhibition method; of depigmenting capacity, by the tyrosinase inhibition method; besides the evaluation of the photoprotective activity and synergism of the sun protection factor of chemical and physical filters. The cladodium extract proved to be more efficient as a cosmetic active, so it was added to a multifunctional anti-aging facial emulsion. Although complementary studies are required to ensure efficacy, the phytocosmetics developed with the cladode extract of H.undatus presents enormous potential for application, and can be considered a multifunctional cosmetic preparation.
The current trend in the cosmetic industry is the development of antiaging products. This is due to the increased life expectancy of the population and the constant concern with a more youthful appearance. Natural actives from plants are interesting alternatives as substitutes for synthetic assets, since they are complex matrices and many of them have a significant antioxidant activity, which gives the product, to which it is incorporated, an anti-aging activity. Assets of plant origin can reduce production costs, which is seen as advantage from the industrial point of view. In this context, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant and photoprotective activity of the shell and cladode extracts of Hylocereus undatus, for incorporation in emulsion and to obtain a multifunctional cosmetic. Antioxidant activity tests were performed by the DPPH radical inhibition method; of depigmenting capacity, by the tyrosinase inhibition method; besides the evaluation of the photoprotective activity and synergism of the sun protection factor of chemical and physical filters. The cladodium extract proved to be more efficient as a cosmetic active, so it was added to a multifunctional anti-aging facial emulsion. Although complementary studies are required to ensure efficacy, the phytocosmetics developed with the cladode extract of H.undatus presents enormous potential for application, and can be considered a multifunctional cosmetic preparation.
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Palavras-chave
Hylocereus undatus, Antioxidante, Antienvelhecimento, Skincare, Cosméticos