Determinação da seletividade no sinergismo entre filtros solares sintéticos e óleo de café verde
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Data
2018-06-05
Autores
Leone, Beatriz Alves
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Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp)
Resumo
Filtros solares são substâncias capazes de refletir, espalhar ou absorver a radiação ultravioleta emitida pelo Sol. Alguns filtros podem ter sua capacidadede proteção aumentada pela adição de outros compostos sintéticos ou naturais. Exemplos das substâncias naturais muito utilizadas nas formulações cosméticas são os óleos de origem vegetal, tal como o óleo de café verde, que, além de ser um excelente emoliente, apresenta a capacidade de proteger a pele contra os danos advindos da exposição à radiação solar devido à sua ação antioxidante e fotoprotetora. Este estudo tem como objetivo identificar o mecanismo de interação que possibilita, ao óleo de café verde, aumentar o fator de proteção solar de diferentes filtros solares químicos e físicos, para isso, foram desenvolvidas emulsões com ou sem óleo de café verde, nas quais foram incorporados diferentes filtros para avaliação do fator de proteção solar. O aumento do FPS pode ser observado para benzophenone-3, ethyl hexyl salicilate, bemotrizinol e ethyl hexyl triazone, sendo que o aumento na absorção de radiação ocorreu na mesma faixa de UV que os filtros absorviam sem a adição do óleo de café verde, o que indica possíveis interações intermoleculares entre componentes do óleo de café e os filtros solares. Por meio de cromatografia em coluna de sílica, foram obtidas 13 diferentes frações de óleo de café verde, as quais foram analisadas quanto a sua interação com os filtros usados e posteriormente, identificadas por meio de Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Eficiência e Ressonância Magnética Nuclear. As frações consideradas capazes de aumentar o FPS dos filtros eram compostas majoritariamente por cafeína.
Solar filters are substances capable of reflect, spread or absorb the ultraviolet radiation emitted by the Sun. Some filters can be potentiated by the addition of other sintetic or natural compounds. Examples of the natural substances widely used in cosmetic formulations are vegetable oils, such as green coffee oil, which in addition to being an excellent emollient, has the ability to protect the skin against damage from exposure to solar radiation due to its antioxidant and photoprotective action. This study aims to identify the mechanism of interaction that allows green coffee oil the ability to increase the sun protection factor of different chemical and physical sunscreens. For this purpose, emulsions with or without green coffee oil have been developed, in which different filters were incorporated to evaluate the sun protection factor. The increase in SPF can be observed for benzophenone-3, ethyl hexyl salicilate, bemotrizinol e ethyl hexyl triazone, and the increase in radiation absorption occurred in the same UV range as the filters absorbed without the addition of green coffee oil, which indicates possible intermolecular interactions between coffee oil components and sunscreens. By means of silica column chromatography, 13 different fractions of green coffee oil were obtained, which were analyzed for their interaction with the filters used and later, identified by means of High Performace Liquid Chromatografy and Nuclear Magnetic Ressonance. The fractions capable of improve the SPF os the filters were composed majoritar for caffeine.
Solar filters are substances capable of reflect, spread or absorb the ultraviolet radiation emitted by the Sun. Some filters can be potentiated by the addition of other sintetic or natural compounds. Examples of the natural substances widely used in cosmetic formulations are vegetable oils, such as green coffee oil, which in addition to being an excellent emollient, has the ability to protect the skin against damage from exposure to solar radiation due to its antioxidant and photoprotective action. This study aims to identify the mechanism of interaction that allows green coffee oil the ability to increase the sun protection factor of different chemical and physical sunscreens. For this purpose, emulsions with or without green coffee oil have been developed, in which different filters were incorporated to evaluate the sun protection factor. The increase in SPF can be observed for benzophenone-3, ethyl hexyl salicilate, bemotrizinol e ethyl hexyl triazone, and the increase in radiation absorption occurred in the same UV range as the filters absorbed without the addition of green coffee oil, which indicates possible intermolecular interactions between coffee oil components and sunscreens. By means of silica column chromatography, 13 different fractions of green coffee oil were obtained, which were analyzed for their interaction with the filters used and later, identified by means of High Performace Liquid Chromatografy and Nuclear Magnetic Ressonance. The fractions capable of improve the SPF os the filters were composed majoritar for caffeine.
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Palavras-chave
Fotoproteção, Óleo de café verde, Sinergismo, FPS